| My seventh week in Rome began with an excursion to the Roman flea market called Porta Portese. I went with my padrona a casa who I adore. She RULED at the market. She hondled, I bought. She also fixed me fabulous food while teaching me to cook in the style of Calabria, my grandparents' homeland. On the other hand, she detailed her ongoing feud with her upstairs neighbor who plays her television too loudly. That week I learned such Italian words as dispetto, or spite. And my favorite: maleducato which, by the way, is not Italian for uneducated. It means rude. On the advice of a worldly and sophisticated Roman woman, I bought a shortwave radio to listen to the BBC's reporting on the bombing of Afghanistan. The reporting was insightful, imbued with the expertise of journalists who have been covering that part of the world for years. She asked me about America's dropping packages of food to the same citizenry upon whom they have dropped bombs. She wondered why they would dare touch those cartons. |
It was a good question. Wouldn't the Afghani people be more likely to think the packages were bombs or poison--some kind of untouchable object? One of the students at my Italian school, an American, told me that the U.S. was also dropping short wave radios so the Afghanis could hear explanations of the food drop from Voice of America. Excuse my skepticism, but even I couldn't figure out how to get Radio Free Europe on my own short wave radio!
 Remember the tale of the man and his salami? Well, his store reared its head again in my adventures. On the weekend, I needed a sandwich for my field trip to Ostia Antica. I ordered un panino formaggio and asked the counterman to put some pesto on it. He looked at me in horror, uttering, Pesto!?, shaking his head madly back and forth.It was as if I had asked him to put cat poop on my sandwich. I probably don't need to tell you that I didn't get that pesto.
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Q - Are you running out of money?
A - Hard to tell. Have you seen the lira? It's like spending play money. When I run out, I just go to the bank and ask for more. Like Monopoly.
Q&A ARCHIVES

A field trip to Ostia Antica
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