Shot from tower in Christianshavn
rulingwoman.com


home

past dispatches

3 months in Rome

photo album

un po P.O.V.

Q&A archives

write

DISPATCH FROM KØBENHAVN
Shot from on top of church tower Copenhagen, unlike Rome, has not been easy to embrace. It is a lovely city. Lovely, indeed.

It has not wrapped its arms around me. My view has been one of detached observer.

View from church in Christianshavn
I travelled to Copenhagen to attend the ordination of one of my best friends from Rome. He is Danish -- and one of only 32,000 Catholics in the entire country. There are so few, in fact, that there is not even an archdiocese in Denmark.

It was a unique experience for me, one I shall not forget. Part spiritual, part sight-seeing, part soul-searching.

I spent the first half of my visit in Roskilde -- that's rskow-skill-uh -- about 30 minutes outside of Copenhagen. It is a town known mostly for its grand Cathedral where all the Danish kings -- and most of its Queens -- are buried. Also in the town, a museum showcasing five salvaged Viking ships.

My friend arranged for me to stay at a Franciscan friary. Or convent, as they call it. It was run by a Danish priest, a German/Danish brother named Theodore now gone on a one-year sabbatical in Honduras, and an American named Bob, from Wisconsin. All fascinating, bright and welcoming.

I passed the time around the ordination in the company of my friend and his colleagues from the English College in Rome. A more fun group of guys could not be found. They were irreverent, witty, incredibly bright. They loved to talk history, both religious and secular. They loved to tease my Danish friend -- getting a great deal of mileage out of Lord Montgomery's attack on Copenhagen. At times, they were playful boys, throwing rocks and poking fun at one another. At others, men most prayerful and devout. In all, a delightful group of men.

Now -- to the Danes. My impression of them is summed up by this anecdote: one sunny bright morning, I remarked to one of my hosts that it was a beautiful day. To which he replied, with a hint of a smile on his face, “the day has just begun.” I think he was kidding.

It is a grey/blue land with Northern lights. Which to a red/siena woman with Southern Italian sensitivity means culture shock.

I've found it difficult to characterize this experience on the whole. Instead, I collect bits and pieces. For example, people in the shops are helpful, as long as you take a number.

I've never thought of myself as a fan of Scandinavian design, but the clean lines, white furniture, pleated paper shades, the simplicity are stunning.

Whereas in Italy, the art is mostly found in churches, here the churches are generally simple and stark in design. The palaces are where you find the ruffles and flourishes. Well, most of them. Not so the castle of “Hamlet” in Elsinore.

I have found a King (or Kong as they are called here) who rivals Henry the Eighth for my affections. Christian IV. A rotund man with an equally rotund wife. With appetites beyond the culinary -- what with 36 children. Good father, great builder, bad warrior. Responsible, it is said, for most of the beautiful buildings in Copenhagen.

It is going to take a little while to process this experience. 'Tis time to look beyond the familiarity of my beloved Rome.


Q - Are there any Danishes in Denmark?

A - Beyond my wildest dreams -- though they don't call them that. They're called wienerbrød.

Q&A ARCHIVES

Poster at St. Vincent's Hospital

The Wall of Ghosts